Located in the hills near Mount Subasio, Spello is an ancient village with meandering cobblestone alleys. There are views from every intersection of Italian life here: window boxes of flowers, Fiats wedged against limestone walls, and slivers of green at the end of alleys revealing the Umbrian hills.

We had to pause a few times trying to pull our suitcases up to our casa here in town, but the interesting way of life here more than makes up for tiring walks.

At 9pm the church bells ring throughout town 100 times we were told. Each time, we’ve lost count as we are usually at dinner or in conversation when they start. Tonight, I took a video about a dozen rings after it started.

We have learned that Spello hosts The Infiorate. A whole night of work takes place to create over sixty flower carpets for the Corpus Domini feast. Over 100, 000 are expected the first weekend in June to witness it. They have already begun drying flower petals, separated by hue, letting them dry on the streets of Spello. They use almost a “paint by number” template but with flower petals and color names rather than numbers. There’s a whole area dedicated to showing what the Infiorate is, in town. Perhaps because it’s date is so soon.

Dinners move at a much slower pace we’re not accustomed to but have grown to appreciate. If dessert is finished, there is no rush to deliver the bill. Between courses, expect to wait. An early dinner is at 7pm. Some restaurants don’t open until 7:30. Last night, our last course was set down at 10 after 10pm (admittedly, a later arrival than usual for us of 8:45pm).

We have gotten to know the local grocery store, enjoyed a few lunches and dinners in town, discovered our favorite gelato (lavanda for Mira, banana split for Sebastian, nero ciccolatto for Andrea, and nociolla for Ryan) and have visited some of the churches, one dating back to 1025. On Sunday, Ryan and I hiked along the newly restored Roman Aqueduct trail between Spello and Collepino, about halfway.

In mid-May it’s been smoky (we think it’s the farmers burning branches from their olive tree pruning), rainy with lightening and thunder, and occasionally sunny with puffy white clouds and blue skies…so a bit of everything!

I’ll leave you with pictures of Spello…